I-Winemaker ethembekileyo yeBaja

Umntu onjani umgcini weValle de Guadalupe ujongene nesimo sewayini esiyiyo.

Izakhiwo zesikhenkethi ezishiyekileyo, eziye zenzelwe ubukhulu, zixubana namakhaya amancinci kunye neepaki zee-trailer njengoko uhamba phantsi kwe-Highway 1 eBaja, eMexico.

Icandelo le-drive likhumbuza indawo evela kwi- Walking Dead , kunye negrafiti yambethe izakhiwo kuyo yonke indawo kwaye idinga umphefumlo. Kwaye enye inxalenye yendlela yokuhamba ihamba kunye neepokotho zendalo ezingafunyaniswa noshishino. Ukusuka eTijuana ukuya e-Ensenada, iidolophana ezincinci phakathi kwazo ziyaqhubeka zikhula kwaye zishiywe yedwa ngophotho kunye nokuqhuma kwe-estate crash ngo-2008.

Ezi pueblos zikhangeleka njengokuba zenza iminyaka engama-30 ukuya kuma-40 edlulileyo kwaye ziyamangalisa ukuba yindawo engabonakaliyo yendalo yendalo ukuba iqhubekele ekujongeni ubomi basolwandle kunye nezifundo zemozulu.

Ngonyaka ka-2012, i-Cancun-sizezed resort yafakwa ekwakheni kwi-East Coast yeBaja eCabo Pulmo. Kodwa iimvume zokukwakha zachithwa ngenxa yomnqweno womphakathi wokukhusela i-gulf coral reef. Emva kokuphazamiseka kokuphuhliswa, ii-NGO zineendlela eziye zahlulwa kwiimfuno zokulondoloza ukufumana inkxaso engaphezulu, i-shishini lokuloba lalawulwa ngakumbi, kwaye i-Peninsula yeBaja yaba yindawo yokuhlenga kwakhona.

Ukukhawuleza ukuya ku-2014. I-Wall Street Journal ikhupha i-athikili malunga nesimo sewayini esikhulayo eBaja. Abafokazi baqala ukuhlutha emanzini kwakhona, ngeli xesha, ukuzama isandla sabo ekukhuleni. Nangona kunjalo, ngabahlali abalawulayo umdlalo kwaye ngokunjalo; Baye baxhamla ukuhla kwezomnotho kwaye baye baphumelela ekusebenziseni izibonelelo zomhlaba kwizizukulwana.

Abaninzi bafika eBaja ukuba batye kwaye banandiphe ukutya kwintlanzi. Ukuhamba kweenqwelo zokuhamba kwe-Ensenda kuhamba ngeendwendwe zayo kwindlunkulu yedolophu. Iingqungquthela zengingqi zifana neHussong, indawo yokuzalwa yamabala eMargarita, neLa Guerrerense, iloli ye-tostada u-Anthony Bourdain ithathwa njengenye yeyona ndawo efanelekileyo kwihlabathi ukuba idle, ilawula ubukhulu.

Ngaphandle kwezi ndawo ezizamekileyo nezinyanisekileyo zokutyelela, umveliso wewayini weValle de Guadalupe udlala indima enkulu ekuvuseleleni imboni yezokhenketho kule ndawo.

Izidiliya zaseValle de Guadalupe zibuyela emva kwee-1520 kunye nommandla uthathwa njengelizwe laseYexico elidala kunayo yonke iwayini. Isimo sezulu siphumelele ukukhula kwamagilebhisi kunye nesomileyo, ishushumo sezulu kunye ne-Pacific Ocean kufuphi. Abavelisi kuloo mmandla baqala ukuhlonipha umhlaba ngexesha lama-1970, kodwa bekude kube kutsho abantu baqaphela kwaye uBaja waba yiNapa Valley yaseMexico. Icandelo lento eyenza indawo eyingqayizivele kukuba abalimi banokudibanisa iifetetal zewayini kwaye abaziwa ngokuvuna nayiphi na uhlobo lomvini. Ukuveliswa kwiNtlambo kusekho mtsha, ngoko ke kukho indawo yokudlala kunye nokwenza ubunikazi.

UHugo D'Acosta nguyise wendawo yewayini eBaja. Wazalelwa eMexico City, wafunda i-enology eFransi, waza wenza i-La Escualita engenzi nzuzo, i-incubator yokufuna abazuzi, xa ebuyela eMexico. U-Swiss enologist uThomas Egli uqhuba isikolo ngoku. Unyaka ngamnye bafumana iklasi elincinane labafundi abanomdla wokufunda isiko. Isakhiwo, esakhiwe ngumzalwana kaHugo uAlejandro, senziwe ngokupheleleyo kwizinto ezikhutshwe ngokugqithisileyo kwaye inxalenye enkulu yokugxila ekufundiseni ku-biodynamics (terroir) ekukhuleni.

I-Escualita izinzile ngokwayo njengesiseko esizinzileyo kubantu abahlala befuna ukungena kwimidlalo yewayini.

Enye yeeprojeti zika-D'Acosta nguPaul Pijoan, onobunikazi beVinos Pijoan, i-winery winery kule ndawo. U-Pau, udokotela wesigqirha esethathe umhlalaphantsi, wathatha u-winemaking njengento yokuzilibazisa kuphela ukufumanisa ukuba wayenokwenene. Ngokukhawuleza waba yinxalenye yeso sizukulwana "esitsha soguqulelo" se-vintners kwaye ngoku sineenkampani eziphumelelayo kunye nokunyaniseka okukhulu. Ukuba uthetha nabani na kuloo mmandla, bayazi ukuba ngubani uPa ngoba ngenxa yezala yakhe no-D'Acosta kwaye ngenxa yokuba uyakwazi ukudala iivini zakhe zokutyikitya.

Xa ufika kuqala encinci (iihektare ezintlanu) kodwa isidiliya esilungileyo unibingelelwa ngabaninzi bezinja zokuncedisa zokuhlala ekhaya. U-Pau, umkakhe uLenora, kunye nentombi yakhe uPaula ngabagcini. Kucacile ukuba bathulula intliziyo yabo nomphefumlo wabo kwishishini.

Banibulisa ngokufudumala kwaye banomdla wokuba babelane ngeendwendwe zabo ngeendwendwe.

UVios Pijoan ungomnye wezinto ezinobuncwane kwiindawo eziye zagqiba ekubeni zenze i-organic kwinkqubo yokukhula kwazo. Ngaphandle kwemilinganiselo ye-sulfites (isisityambo sokuvelisa amagilebhisi), abasebenzisi ii-insecticides okanye iikhemikhali ezinobungozi kwimveliso. Isiqubulo sePijoan sithi "iWinly Wine", ibango elingabonakaliswa ngendlela iivini zivuna ngayo. Ukususela kwi-composting kunye nokufuya iinyosi ukuya kwintsimi yezityalo ezizalwayo, iiPijoans zenza iimeko zentsimi kwisidiliya kwaye zithembele kwizinto zendalo ukuze zikhuthaze imveliso yazo. Baye bafaka izilwanyana kwiimithi zabo njenge-biologist buffer malunga neentonga kunye neenja zibanceda ukugcina izidalwa ezingavumelekanga. Baye bathambekele kwiinyosi ezimbini kwaye bathengise ubusi bendawo owenziwe kubo.

I-Syrah, i-Merlot, i-Grenache, kunye neChabernet ziisampuli zeediliya ezenziwe yiPijoans. Uninzi lwewayini luthiwa ngamabhinqa ayenempembelelo enkulu ebomini bukaPawuli kwaye "uzama ukufanisa umlingiswa nokuphila kwelungu ngalinye lentsapho kwiwayini."

UPawuli unempawu ezininzi ezinobungakanani bemvelo abasebenzisa intombi yakhe uPaula onqwenela ukuphatha umhlaba ngokunyamekela. I-oceanographer ngorhwebo, akumangalisi ukuba imvelaphi kaPaula kwizenzululwazi idlala ekuthandeni umhlaba. Xa abazali bakhe bathenga le nqanaba, weza ebhodini ukuze ancede ukugijima kwaye umyezo waba yiprojekthi yakhe yesilwanyana. Usebenza kuphela kunye nezityalo ezizaliswayo ezivela kwiintaba kwaye ziyazi kakuhle ukulwa nezilwanyana ezingenakusetyenziswa ngaphandle kwemichiza.

Ekubeni imvula inqabile kwiNtlambo, abaqhubi be-winemakers kufuneka baqikelelwe kakhulu ekusebenziseni kwamanzi kwaye bahlala bejamelana nezilimo zabo. Ngenxa yolu mbandela, iiPijoans zindlu kuphela yokuveliswa kwemeko engama-2500, ivumela ukuba basebenze ngokunyamekela kwaye bakhule kuphela oko kuyimfuneko. Baxhasa inkxaso yoluntu lwabo, ukuthenga zonke iidiliya zabo kwizidiliya ezikufutshane. Ngaphandle kweenkqubo zokuphumelela, iiPijoans ziqwalasela zonke iintsapho zabasebenzi, kwaye wonke umntu udlala indima ebalulekileyo kwimpumelelo kweshishini.

AmaPijoans anqwenela ukuvelisa iivini ezibonisa umgangatho welizwe kunye nentsapho yabo yintoni eyenza bahluke. Baqonda ukuba umdlalo wexesha elide ulungele ukuhlonipha nokusebenza kunye nendalo njengokuba kunjalo, kunokuzama ukuphucula. Le ngcinga yinto ekugqibeleni iya kuma ukuvavanywa kwexesha njengoko iBaja iyaqhubeka nokuguquka njengendawo yokutyelela abavakashi.